The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 holds a unique place in horological history. Introduced in 1971, it wasn't merely an evolution of the original Explorer, but a bold step into a new realm of functionality, specifically designed for the rigors of cave exploration. This article will delve deep into the introduction of the 1655, exploring its technical specifications, design choices, dial variations, and its enduring legacy as a highly sought-after vintage Rolex. We'll also touch upon aspects like pricing, value, sizing, and the coveted (though less common) diamond bezel variants.
The Genesis of the 1655: A Tool Watch for the Underworld
Unlike its predecessor, the Explorer 1, which focused on legibility and robustness for mountaineering, the Explorer II 1655 was conceived with a more specialized purpose: aiding cave exploration. The crucial element differentiating it from other Rolex models of the time, and indeed, many watches today, was its 24-hour hand. This feature, inherited from the movement shared with the contemporaneous GMT-Master reference 1675, was not intended for tracking multiple time zones. Instead, it provided a critical safety feature for cave explorers: the ability to distinguish between AM and PM in the perpetual darkness of subterranean environments.
The 1655 housed the Caliber 1575, a robust and reliable movement known for its accuracy and dependability. This automatic movement, with its 24-hour hand, was the heart of the watch. While the GMT-Master 1675 utilized a rotating bezel to track time zones, the Explorer II 1655 opted for a fixed 24-hour bezel. This fixed bezel, etched with a clear 24-hour scale, ensured that the 24-hour hand remained the primary method for telling the time, avoiding any potential for accidental misalignment or confusion in challenging conditions. This design choice underlines Rolex's commitment to creating a tool watch specifically tailored to the needs of its target user: the serious cave explorer.
Rolex Explorer II 1655 Dial Variations: A Collector's Dream
One of the aspects that makes the 1655 so fascinating for collectors is the variety of dial variations produced during its production run (1971-1984). These variations, subtle yet significant, contribute to the watch's desirability and its fluctuating value. The dials differ in several key features:
* Marker Style: The hour markers varied from simple baton-style markers to more complex, slightly longer ones. The lume plots also varied in size and shape over time.
* Hand Style: The hands, too, underwent subtle changes throughout the production period. The shape and length of the hour, minute, and 24-hour hands can be used to help date a specific 1655.
* "Gilt" Dials: Highly sought-after are the "gilt" dials, which feature a slightly warmer, gold-toned appearance. These are often considered the most desirable and valuable variations.
* "Matt" Dials: In contrast to the gilt dials, the matt dials offer a more subdued and less reflective surface.
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